Apart from the watch clasps and straps, a watch dial is one of the most noticeable features of any timepiece. This is because the dial displays the time on the watch and is the heart of the overall appearance.
However, choosing the right one can be daunting because of the various types of watch dials available. After all, some are more robust and affordable than others. On top of that, some dials are more high-end and stylish than their counterparts.
But don’t fret. This guide will cover the various watch dials to help you choose the best one that matches your style.
Different Types of Watch Dial
Various watches use different types of dials, available in contrasting patterns and colors, just like different types of watch clasps. And each dial is designed to complement a specific style. Below we will look at the common watch dial options you will surely come across.
- Crosshair Dials
This type of watch dial features nearly invisible or thin lines like human hair that run horizontally and vertically. The lines may vary in thickness and usually intersect at the center of the case. Typically, these lines start from 3 to 9 and 12 to 6.
The lines of crosshair dials also vary in length. For some watches, the crosshairs stretch across the entire dial. In other timepieces, the crosshairs or bars don’t reach the end of the dial and are often called broken crosshairs.
Crosshair watch dials were very popular among dress watches in the mid-60s and 70s. The dial pattern was featured in the Omega DeVille, Jaeger LeCoultre Geophysic, and Universal Geneve Polerouter dress watches. Today, Omega still remains the number one manufacturer of watches featuring crosshair dials. However, there are also other brands, including:
- Rolex
- Damasko
- Jaeger LeCoultre (JLC)
- Longines
The benefit of crosshair dials is that besides being aesthetically enticing to the eyes, they also make reading time a breeze. Simply, the crosshairs allow you to quickly identify 12-3-6-9 on the dial. This makes it easy to tell how far the second hand is away from that.
- Enamel Dials
As the name suggests, these dials are made of enamel materials. Enamel is a famous material manufactured by fusing melted glass to a base under intense heat. However, while this material has been used for thousands of years, enamel dials are not as old.
Unlike crosshair dials, enamel dials are widely used by top-tier watch brands. This is because the process of making the dials is not easy. And for these reasons, enamel-dialed watches are also costly and rare. Some of the brands that utilize this type of dial in their timepieces include;
- Seiko
- AnOrdain
- Jaeger-LeCoultre
- Ball Watch company
- Voutilainen
While enamel-dialed watches are relatively more expensive than their crosshair counterparts, you will find them uniquely gorgeous. This is because the dials can take various forms, such as the Grand feu, Cloisonne, Flinque, and champleve enamel.
However, the Grand feu is the most widely used form because of its superior durability. The best part about enamel dials is they come in a range of color options that do not easily tarnish or age over time.
- Gilt Dials
A gilt dial watch features dial printing made in gold color. Typically, you will find that the metal around the watch’s second hand is also made of gold. Other elements of the watch dial that may have gold paint printing include:
- Watch-name and model
- Hour markers
- Watch brand name
- Depth rating
Perhaps you don’t know this, but gilt dials became popular in the 1950s and early 1960s. Rolex was among the first watchmakers to utilize the dials in their sports model watches. As such, Rolex gilt dial watches are the most sought-after and valuable vintage watches today.
Gilt-dial watches boast a distinctive warm look thanks to the gold luster, making them highly desirable. However, compared to enamel dials, gilt dials are not highly robust. The good news is that the gold printing will not discolor or corrode over time.
- Guilloche Dials
The first guilloche dial watch came out around 1680. However, this dial became more popular in the 18th century. Since then, watch brands, including Breguet, have been producing guilloche dial watches of all kinds.
But what are guilloche dials, you ask? These are dials boasting engraved and intricate patterns on the metal, which can be wavy or straight. However, the patterns differ depending on the machine used. Some of the standard and beautiful designs available in guilloche dials are:
- Sunburst guilloche (resembling rays of light)
- Clous de Paris (hobnail)
- Flinque
- Barleycorn
Generally, guilloche dials can be engraved using a CNC machine, a rose engine, or by hand. However, hand-made guilloche dials are only present in high-end watches and are very expensive. This is because the hand-crafting process is very laborious.
Conclusion
Knowing what the dial on a watch is, is not enough when looking to buy a watch. You also must learn about the different types of dials available. This is because most watch dials will always say something about your personality.
Now, while there are many types of watch dials, the best one depends on your personal preference. For instance, if you want something minimalistic, you could opt for crosshair watch dials. And if you would like something more stylish and luxurious, enamel dialed watches are your best choice.
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